The First-Time Visitor’s Guide to Where to Eat in Philadelphia
This story was originally written for Philadelphia Magazine.
It’s nearly impossible to come to Philadelphia for a single weekend and see everything that it has to offer, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try. This is a singularly excellent city in which to eat, and this guide is designed to help you see as much as possible of Philly’s incredible food offerings (after you’ve booked a tour, of course.)
Gabriella’s Vietnam
A rule of thumb: don't come to Philly and skip over the incredible Southeast Asian restaurant scene. Sure, lots of people (including myself) will tell you to get a bowl of phở (see below) but Gabriella's is a great place to try Vietnamese food that goes beyond the staples you might see elsewhere. Try the bánh khọt, mini coconut cakes that come with lettuce and herbs for wrapping, or bánh bèo chén, open-faced dumplings that come steamed in tiny bowls and topped with shrimp, pork and shallot. For larger dishes, share the soft-shell crab and the shaken beef made with filet mignon. More good news: Gabriella's is BYOB. So remember to show up with your own drinking supplies (sans glasses or opener). The history and politics of the Philly liquor laws are complicated, but the BYOB is a classic Philly phenomena that you should try once or twice or eight times while you're here. 1837 East Passyunk Avenue, East Passyunk.
Laser Wolf or Zahav
Michael Solomonov's Laser Wolf and Zahav are both big deals in Philadelphia — they've won plenty of awards for modern Israeli cuisine and excellent hospitality, and they're both really hard to get into (though we have some tips to snagging a table). Zahav is the original, and slightly fancier; Laser Wolf is a little more laid back. In either case, you'll need to plan ahead. But, if you can't get in, don't spend too much time feeling bummed about it. Solomonov's fast casual spots, while not as flashy, will give you a pretty decent sample of the food he's built something of an empire around: Goldie is great for falafel and tehina shakes; Dizengoff for hummus platters and frozen lemonana. Plus, there's always K'Far — the Rittenhouse bakery that serves great pastries and Jerusalem bagel sandwiches. 1301 North Howard Street, Kensington and 237 St. James Place, Society Hill.
Hardena
Hardena is a Philly institution (a casual, cash-only, order-enough-to-take-leftovers-home institution, at that). This long-time favorite Indonesian spot has a hot bar ideal for getting a different meal anytime you visit. Offerings change all the time, but favorites include: fried chicken, corn fritters, beefy soto betawi, and a collard greens in coconut milk dish called sayur singkong. 1754 South Hicks Street, Point Breeze.
John's Water Ice
For the uninitiated, here's what you need to know about water ice: Its texture lives somewhere between a snow cone and sorbet. Water ice was created by Italian immigrants and it's beloved by all people. Philadelphians pronounce it "wooder" ice, but you do not need to attempt that (actually don't, please). Go to John's (which has been around since 1945) to try it for the first time — especially at dusk in the summertime, when you can eat a lemon water ice and let the charm of the city do its Philly thing. 701 Christian Street, Bella Vista.
Royal Izakaya
For anyone prioritizing a fun night out while you're here, Royal Izakaya should be your spot. Sure, you could try to get a reservation for the elegant omakase experience in the back room, but you'll be just as happy (possibly happier) sitting at the bar or in a roomy booth in the main dining room here. Sip a few highballs or Japanese beer, then bounce around the menu of chef-owner Jesse Ito's izakaya fare while anime plays in the background. If you're there for a late dinner, ask for the industry chirashi bowl, a plastic pint-container filled with sushi rice and fresh fish. 780 South 2nd Street, Queen Village.
Kalaya
After humble beginnings as a BYOB in the Italian Market, Kalaya is all grown up. This restaurant reinvented itself in a much larger Fishtown space at the end of 2022, but continues to serve some of the best Thai food in the country, now in a bigger space with more tables, a larger menu, and the welcome addition of a liquor license do you can have a beer slushy with your meal. Owner Nok Suntaranon (Philly's latest winner of the James Beard Foundation's Best Chef Mid-Atlantic Award) is uncompromising in her commitment to presenting her native Southern Thai food in its most classic form. That means there are no spice level alterations available, so come ready and willing to endure the heat or don't come at all. Ideal ordering here includes: a plate of little flower-shaped shaw muang dumplings stuffed with ground chicken, cold and crunchy laab ped, and one or two of the curry options (the scallop version with long hots and coconut cream is particularly mind-blowing). You'll definitely need a reservation, although they do take walk-ins at the bar if you're committed to waiting. 4 West Palmer Street, Fishtown.
Angelo’s Pizzeria
If you're coming to Philly with a focus on eating (the correct attitude) you've probably been led to believe you need a cheesesteak. The one at Angelo's is one of the greatest in the city, though you'll have to brave the phone-only ordering system to eat it. (Dedicate 10 or 15 minutes to calling over and over and over and over. You will eventually get through. Or go place your order in person and walk around for forty-ish minutes while you wait.) They also have great, thin-crust pies and stellar Italian hoagies. If these ordering hurdles seem like more trouble than they're worth, consider opting for a roast pork sandwich from John's, a hoagie from Antonio's, and a slice of tomato pie from... 736 South 9th Street, Bella Vista.